Weekly Letter: Proper Under Things

Dear readers,
     This week I thought it would be good to discuss the "hush hush" things of the Victorian period.  This included many layers during the early 1800's till the end of the Victorian age.  First off the most important layer: the corset.

A period corset and hoop

     Now, I know that to modern day society the corset is scandalous and slightly daunting, however, not only have women been wearing these for centuries but laced up properly it will not effect you drastically.  Please take the time to indulge yourself in this lovely written article about wearing corsets: With and Without a Corset by the Pragmatic Costumer
     Now, the corset in general was made to give you the proper shape, but of course, like all things can be taken out of proportion.  Thus, Scarlet O'hara's 18 1/2" waist (Emphasis on the fact that she was 16 during the beginning of the book/movie and they did not have a McDonald's).  So do I love wearing my corset? Absolutely! If it wasn't for modern day clothing I would wear it more often.  The back support that it provides is incredible and the way it makes my waist looks is magic by itself.
      Wear do you get a corset you ask? Well, for beginners I lucked out on eBay. I know it is uncommon to find a well made, legit corset, however, it can be done.  My first black one was only $38! It was quite a deal.  Then I moved on to a more period correct corset from Etsy (I wrote about it Here) which gives me a more accurate shape.  Next, I am looking a corsets by Kay.  One of my fellow Girls School mates has one that she bought at a reenactment that she absolutely loves! I am hoping to purchase one when I go to an event myself.
      The next layer would be the chemise and drawers(also called pantalets).

My own chemise, drawers and corset

     These would be made of a light cotton and would have lace detail maybe with ribbon and pretty trimmings.  The most common drawers were called split drawers which had a slit up the crotch for when one had to use the facilities.  Oh! Of course you would have your stockings and boots as well, "Boots before corsets ladies"!
     Now, for modesty purposes you would have a small petticoat under your hoop in case your hoop, for some reason, flipped up.  After that you would then have another petticoat over your hoop.  Before the hoop was popular ladies used several layers of petticoats to get a fuller effect for their dresses.  Luckily, the hoop caught on and eliminated most of the petticoats, however, the bones can still show through a dress if you are not careful.  I use two petticoats over my six bone hoop to give the perfect fullness to my skirts.
     Hoops are the second most important pieces next to corsets.

My petticoat and hoop

     Hoops are pretty common to buy but you may not always get a sturdy hoop.  During the 1800's hoops were made from whale bone(which was actually the teeth of whales).  Now days they are made from steal, plastic, wire all sorts of materials.  A long lasting hoop will be made from a strong steal.  I have yet to make a hoop but I would love to try.  Cage hoops were the most common of the time:

      Shapes varied depending on the time and what you were doing.  Some ball gowns required bigger hoops for the weight of the material, while simplistic dresses you wore at home only required small hoops.  The best place to find a well made Victorian hoop would be a sutler( Blockade runner has a nice variety).   

     Hopefully this has given you a better insight to what one would need in their Victorian wardrobe.

Yours Truly,

Shayla P.